But a decade ago he became much more serious about feeding not only his family but others.
“It came in stages.”
His daughter Anais, 35, manages the kitchen while Jordanne, 26, oversees care of the animals -
eight chickens, five ducks and two goats. Justin, 31, gardens, waters and makes
30 gallons of biodiesel (green fuel) a month from waste vegetable oil collected from local restaurants.
It is used to run the family’s two diesel cars.
Jules, the manager, does a little bit of everything, including replanting the beds and picking
the greens and produce sold to local restaurants.
Their 15-year-old business, Dervaes Gardens, grosses about $20,000 yearly in sales of organic
produce and edible flowers to local restaurants, caterers and individuals. Among their clients
are Marston’s restaurant, Elements Cafe and Kitchen and Kitchen for Exploring Foods, all in Pasadena.
Jim McCardy, owner/chef of Marston’s, began buying produce from the Dervaes family
about six years ago when “they came to my back door at the restaurant and gave me samples
of some lettuces which were incredible.” Now “I get baby greens from them two or three times a week”
in addition to other in-season produce including Meyer lemons, different types of Swiss chard,
heirloom tomatoes and herbs.
“The things I get from them are used in the dinner menus” (the restaurant is open
Wednesday through Saturday for dinner). Among the creations he makes with the produce
are crispy goat cheese salad with pesto vinaigrette; grapefruit and avocado salad; tempura scallop salad
with asparagus and peanut coconut dressing; heirloom tomatoes with greens, fresh mozzarella and
pine nut lemon vinaigrette; swiss chard with roasted chicken; and sea scallops with Meyer lemon and
chive sauce. A couple of the salads on the menu credit the Dervaes organic greens.
“The baby greens have a much more pronounced fresher flavor and more vibrant color as they
have been in the ground a couple of hours before.”
The family also makes money (for necessities) from products/seeds sold at their
online storeswww.peddlerswagon.com and www.freedomseeds.org.
“Almost every day we have some surplus produce (sign up at www.dervaesgardens.com to find out
about it or check the list at www.localharvest.org) that individuals can purchase,” says Anais.
Last year the chicken and ducks produced 1,780 eggs, three-quarters of which were sold as well.
“During the summer, 90 percent of their meals come from food they grow while in the winter
it’s more like 60 percent,” notes Jules. Sometimes they trade produce, barter or pick up extra food
items in bulk at a co-op or shop at Trader Joe’s, Whole Foods or Vons.
Following a lacto-ovo-vegetarian diet, the family eats mainly vegetables along with eggs,
milk and cheese. Occasionally, they will eat fish. About “30 percent of what we eat in winter
meals is my canned goods,” says Anais, – “tomatoes, beans, fruits, garlic, peppers, squash,
apples, figs, jalapeno jelly, pickles, apple butter, jams (blueberry, strawberry, fig, guava).
We freeze things, too (mostly berries and some tomatoes, peppers and zucchini) and dry herbs.”
Anais keeps a simple pantry – with flour, rice, sugar, oats and pasta – and shops once a week.
“I don’t tire of cooking three meals a day (in a very small kitchen),” she says, adding, “taste the food —
it is dynamite and speaks for itself.”
Although they don’t use small electric appliances like a food processor or blender
(they opt for hand-cranked models), they do have an energy-efficient refrigerator with freezer and
a washing machine that run on green power. They use gas stove-top burners for cooking but a solar oven
instead of a conventional one for baking dishes, which take twice as long, notes Anais.
They’ve had 12 solar panels since 2004 that provide two-thirds of their energy (power) from the sun.
The balance comes from green power they buy from the city of Pasadena
(from a wind farm near Palm Springs), says Jules. “We’re 100 percent green wind and solar.”
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